"Immediately we are in another world. Tiny streets wind like tunnels through buildings packed so close together you can hear the sounds of two televisions competing with each other from houses on either side of the street. Blasts of air hit you from either side: hot air from a bakery, cool air from someone's fan."

"Insightful tours of Dharavi are run by Reality Tours and Travel."

"Far from being the exploitative experiences I'd anticipated, they opened up a world that I felt privileged to enter- one which allowed me to make a brief but meaningful connection with the locals and, in turn, their country."

"The sledgehammer smells - animal hides, burning plastic, paraffin - were periodically sweetened by the miraculous waft of freshly baked bread. The density of humanity, far from being oppressive, was exhilarating."

"In four hours no one begged from me; no one asked: 'Where from sir?' No one tried to sell me miniature backgammon sets or take me to his brother's 'good price' shop. Nor did anyone question or visibly resent my presence. In truth, they were busy and I was irrelevant."

"The brilliant thing about the Dharavi tour was that it showed the poverty and populousness of India in a positive light."

"The tours are conducted with exemplary sensitivity, and the co-operation of the residents."

"It seemed to me that the purpose of the tour was not to generate pity, but understanding."

"Reality Tours and Travel operate compelling trips out of Dharavi."

"Looks like a win-win situation so far."

"As these guides have a good rapport with the locals and industry owners here, they also get positive response from them."